Every great house was once a new designer. We looked for independents who own their aesthetic, make in real workshops, have survived their first five years and are being bought by people who could buy anything. The list mixes ready-to-wear, accessories and jewelry. Prices give the entry point.
New York
The Row
No longer new, still the reference: the Olsens built the quiet-luxury template with fabrics from Italy and cuts nobody improves on. Start with a coat; everything else follows.
New York
Khaite
Catherine Holstein’s house turned cashmere, leather and denim into evening wear. The pieces are worn hard and still look expensive.
Stockholm
Toteme
Elin Kling’s label made the wrap coat and the striped scarf a uniform for women who dress well without effort. The prices are the most accessible on this list.
Paris
Jacquemus
Simon Porte Jacquemus built an independent house with shows in lavender fields and a bag on every wrist. The energy is the point; the tailoring is better than it needs to be.
London
Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner’s tailoring and knitwear draw on Caribbean and West African archives with British cut. The adidas collaborations sell out in minutes; the mainline is the collectable.
New York
Bode
Emily Adams Bode makes menswear from antique textiles and family stories. One-of-a-kind pieces that people keep for life.
Copenhagen
Cecilie Bahnsen
Cloud-like dresses in matelassé and organza, worn with trainers. The most distinctive silhouette to come out of Copenhagen, and a house that owns it completely.
Lagos and Vienna
Kenneth Ize
Nigerian hand-weaving in modern cuts, made by cooperatives Ize helped rebuild. Luxury with a supply chain you can visit.
London and São Paulo
Fernando Jorge
Brazilian fluidity in 18-carat gold and warm stones. The jeweler that fashion editors buy for themselves; the pieces feel like they grew rather than were made.
London
Métier
Melissa Morris designs bags around how they are actually used, in Italian leather with details that solve problems. The luxury-travel insider’s alternative to the monogram.
| Designer | Based in | Known for | Start with |
|---|---|---|---|
| The Row | New York | Quiet, perfect tailoring and knitwear | a cashmere coat, from $4,000 |
| Khaite | New York | American sensuality with structure | a knit, from $1,200 |
| Toteme | Stockholm | Scandinavian minimalism that fits | a scarf coat, from $1,500 |
| Jacquemus | Paris | Joy, colour, the South of France | a Chiquito bag, from $600 |
| Wales Bonner | London | Afro-Atlantic elegance | a tailored jacket, from $1,500 |
| Bode | New York | Quilts, workwear, storytelling | a shirt, from $500 |
| Cecilie Bahnsen | Copenhagen | Romantic volume | a dress, from $1,500 |
| Kenneth Ize | Lagos and Vienna | Handwoven aso oke | a woven shirt, from $700 |
| Fernando Jorge | London and São Paulo | Sculptural gold | a ring, from $2,500 |
| Métier | London | Bags for travelling well | a bag, from $1,800 |
Try it yourself
Gift FinderWho it is for, the occasion and the budget: five luxury gift ideas that land, from a candle to a watch.Questions people ask
Which new fashion designers are worth investing in?
The Row, Khaite, Toteme and Jacquemus have proven they can build houses; Wales Bonner, Bode and Cecilie Bahnsen own distinctive signatures that are being collected.
What is quiet luxury?
Clothing without visible logos, made in the best materials and cuts, where the quality is the statement. The Row and Toteme are the reference points.
How do I discover new luxury designers?
Look at who the buyers at Dover Street Market, Bergdorf Goodman and Net-a-Porter add each season, and at the LVMH Prize and CFDA award shortlists.
Share this guide
